It matters with the sparkly spear is not how sharp. The rusted sword is none.

Another 6:45 am alarm – but this was the nicest scenery so far; worth it! On the way to Udaipur, olling hills, some hard ones (and Seong’s gears weren’t working properly), along rivers and through towns. We stopped to take photos of three sisters carrying heavy bundles of wood; they insisted on inviting us to one of their homes and offered us bowls of hot buttermilk and corn laced with toasted cumin.

The patriarch of the family. 90 years old!

Our guide, Umesh, gulping half a gallon of unpasteurized buffalo milk in front of the incredulous vendor on motorbike.