Greece – Our Travel Blog

May 12, Santorini: Bikes finally together after chain mishap

After fiddling with it unsuccessfully for what seemed like hours, had the kinked chain fixed at a local bike shop for 5 euros (20 euros for cab to get the bike 4km from the hotel to the bike shop and back). Family left for the airport this morning while Jamie and I finished assembling the bikes. We ate a late lunch at the local grocery store ( Jamie’s favorite kind of meal; grapes, strawberries, freddo capuccino and huge, steaming spanakopita), then set out on our bikes to the ferry terminal. On the way, we ran into Santos winery and stopped for wine tasting. Most of the tables were reserved for the big bus tours, but we managed to find a table with incredible views of the Aegean. The Assyrtiko was pretty nice, too. The ferry terminal is at the bottom of a super steep set of switchbacks; we had to stop more than three times to cool off the overused brakes. More than half way down, we passed a guy on his bike, loaded down with camping gear, assiduously pumping the pedals up the hill — all with a huge grin! Gratefully, our way out of the ferry terminal at Heraklion did not involve such a steep climb. Famished, we stumbled into Hippocambos (hippocampus, which means seahorse) and were treated with fabulous seafood and great people watching

5/13/17 Heraklion to Arhanes (Arhontiko)

This morning Jamie realized that he sent the keys for the U-lock back to Athens with the bike bags! While we were making our way out of Heraklion through the narrow, curvy streets, a scruffy old man on the sidewalk greeted us with “Kalimera”. While responding to him, I realized that he is standing in front of a hardware store, where we bought a padlock that would do just fine securing our bikes (with the cable we have). Temperatures got to 93 F in Heraklion today. Even though we got on our bikes by 8:30am, we got hot very quickly. We also realized that this island is a series of short steep hills. We initially thought we would ride the 11 miles to Arhanes, then make it to a winery beyond that by 11am easily. By 10:30, we were not even close, and had to cancel the appointment. On the way, we passed many hectares of well tended grapevines; this being the center of Cretan wine country. Dogs here, many of which are loose and roaming the streets, seem rather laconic and sedate compared to the dogs in Portugal. Our AirBnB, Arhontiko, was one of four apartments in a very old, stone building with a very charming, flower filled courtyard. Our apartment consisted of two spacious levels, with the bedroom in the lower level which, albeit a bit dark, was thankfully very cool and comfortable. After a restorative shower and nap, we got back on the bikes and rode to Peza for wine tasting at a large production winery. Unfortunately, the wines were rather forgettable. On the way back, up a longish steep hill, we were lured by another sign for a winery (Stilianos), followed it, and ended up making a series of turns through a quaint little village, then up the hill to a small tasting room. There, we were treated to a sit down tasting of three tasty wines, with personal attention by the owner, and found out that this is a 5th generation venture. When the air cooled a bit, we walked down the steep hill to the cute central plaza and plopped down at an outdoor table at Bakaliko. While eating the amazing “Greek Gazpacho” and salad, we engaged the owner in conversation. An enthusiast of Cretan wines, he proceeded to curate a flight of excellent white wines for us, which we savored while soaking up the atmosphere of a warm Mediterranean summer night.

5/14/17 Arhanes

We got an early start and rode to Knossos, 6.1 miles mostly downhill. At 9:30am, the place was already mobbed with Chinese, Japanese, French and German tourist groups. Evans, who was the archeologist who funded the dig of this palace from the Minoan era, apparently was heavily criticized for using non-original materials (like, concrete) and indulging his own fancy in the reconstruction of the buildings. We hired a private guide for 80 euros; she wove the mythology of King Minos and archeology to make the site come alive for us. King Minos’ wife apparently had an affair with a magical bull, siring the Minotaur, which was then kept in the “labyrinth” of Knossos, gobbling up tributes from Athens, until Theseus, son of King Aegeus (?) managed to kill it and escape the labyrinth. Though a sophisticated culture, having built this grand, sprawling palace with beautiful frescoes, aqueducts and flush toilets, the Minoans are considered “prehistoric” because we have not been able to decipher their written language, linear A yet. The ride back up the steep hill to Arhanes, in the mid day heat, sapped our energy (despite it being a short ride without bags). After the much needed shower and nap, we had another wonderful meal at Bakaliko, and indulged in a flight of 6 Cretan red wines. We loved the local varietals of Kotsifail and Mandilari; the wines were surprisingly sophisticated. Dinner at the much touted “gourmand” destination, Kritamon, though, was very disappointing. While waddling up the steep hill back up to the apartment, we happened upon a local bar, filled with young and old Greeks, enjoying drinks and live traditional music.

May 15: Tichos.

Mitochi House. Xara, the owner, made a big lunch including dolmas that were actually great, and for dinner, the best rabbit ever.

May 16: Tzermiado, Lasithi Plateau. Argoulias Guest House

Left our great place in Tichos after breakfast; one of our nicer rides. Arrived to hear that the place we reserved was full, but that was not the case. Very nice place with big balcony and view.
May 17 – 18: Agios Nikolaos. Mostly s big long downhill ride from Lasithi Plateau. New front brake pads installed by BMX champ, recommended by Ionnis at our bike friendly hotel Du Lac. Church of Panagia Kera frescoes the next morning, then light rain.

May 19: Michlos

May 20: Palekastro

May 21: Kato Zakros

Rode to town, very nice, especially the long drop into town with views east to the Aegean. Hiked the gorge; late lunch. Dinner of colorful salad, green peppers sauteed with garlic and vinegar, fish (scorpion?) soup, seafood risotto.

May 22: Rethimnon

Hired Niko to drive us from Kat Zakros to Rethimnon, with the bikes. Almost 6 hours. Worked out great.

A lot of the road between Zakros and the South coast is very hilly and exposed. It’s paved though, and effectively no traffic.

Arrived:

Meronas

Ligres

Stayed at Villa Maria, which was quite nice but is also the lunch stop for the Safari tours, which occur every day. 80 to 120 people; mostly French and Germans on package tours. Right on the beach, smaller, quieter, with hippie vibe is Ligres Beach. That would be better.

Huge bonus though: for 40€ we were driven, at 6:30 am, up about 2000 feet if 10% grade, turning our ride from potentially impossible to one of the best ever. Really.